Pattern Review: Simplicity 9714 Mimi G View A: Blazer

What I Liked

I bought this pattern because I really liked the modern style of the blazer: the traditional notched lapel with a casual twist of having a tie to one side. It also has one inside button right below the collar to secure it.

Sizing

After reviewing the size chart on the envelope back, I decided to play it safe and go the next size up, based on my bust size. I did this because I wasn’t going to make a muslin, and I’d rather err on the side of caution. I chose size 24 and graded to a 26 in the hips. I had no problem sewing this blazer. I think that the instructions have gotten better in these newer patterns. They had a clear outline of rules at the start of the instructions, which is quite helpful.

Flat Pattern Adjustments

There is no way to adjust the length of the jacket fronts on this particular pattern. Collar, pocket, pocket flap and tie placement make it too complicated to adjust the length. The sleeves have length adjustment, which I did use. I shortened the sleeves by a 1/2″ (1 cm). This is a standard adjustment I make, as pattern sleeve lengths are usually too long for me. The sleeves were still long on the finished jacket, even with the adjustment.

The Finished Blazer: The Fit

The blazer turned out too big in the shoulders and arms. It fits me better in the lower half of the jacket. I plan to alter it to fit me better in the upper half, but I took some pics to document how it looked on my first try before I make alterations:

There’s a drop in the shoulder seam. It isn’t in line with my shoulders. The armhole is too big, causing a pooling of excess fabric at the bottom of the armscye that runs along the fronts.
The oversized armholes also cause a problem of fit when lifting my arms. The entire jacket lifts with my arm, which I think is incorrect.
Here I’m holding the shoulder seams up to where I believe they should actually sit.

I’m going to alter this blazer to fit me better in the arms and shoulders. I have some ideas for a workaround that keeps me from having to remove the collar. Fingers crossed 🤞!

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